98 or 99, 8 in the morning and I find myself in a
ludicrously crowded metro wagon hurtling north. I have managed to get in front
of the doors so that when they open I don’t have to fight my way there to avoid
travelling 3 stations further than I want to.
There is a language formula that operates here, you say to
the person in front of you “Vy VYkhoditye?” (Are you getting out?) and they say
yes, or they allow you to move in front of them, as far as the crush allows.
Occasionally the asker, if nervous about his escape options, will ask if those
in front of you will get out too, and you can ask them to reassure him, or
reply: “Yes, but they don’t know it yet.”
Anyway, a woman’s
voice somewhere behind me asks if I am getting out, and, despite being crammed
up against the glass, I grunt confirmation. We pull into the station and then,
for some reason, or more likely for no reason, the doors don’t open. I feel the
crowd behind me pushing as though their ire would trigger the electric door
mechanism, but there is no movement. And then, whoever is directly behind me
loses it and starts rabbit punching me in the kidneys. Stop I shout, and try to
writhe away out of range, but there is nowhere to go, and it keeps happening
until finally I too enter the world of lost itness and kick backwards with all
my might. I am wearing heavy winter boots and I am not at all delicately built,
so I make serious contact with whatever demon is assaulting me. At which very
moment two things happen: the doors open, and an old woman emits a high pitched
scream of unendurable agony.
I look back as I
tumble from the train to see a babushka hitting the floor and behind her a sea
of faces staring at me in horrified amazement, it is the work of a second to
grasp that explanation and excuses would be beyond my weak Russian, and I am
gone, never looking back, waiting for the hand on my shoulder that signifies
the pitchforks have been issued and the baying mob established.
But it does not come.
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