Central park is a
dream, Times Square when baked less so. I must make a point of going to both
places again, but timing is all.
In the park there
are communities of dog walkers, as there are in most places. Here there are a
wider mix, east side, cosmetically altered cougars, rented dog walkers of
various non Anglo Saxon descent and other, apparently, ordinary people.
The dogs arrive
at the square by the pond where they all meet and go charging ahead round the
corner as though on rails, the owners lag behind, the dogs greeting everyone
before they get to do their hellos..
The park is full
of Victorian style architecture, very beautiful, very English.
You sit there and
you think: this is it, this is how to make a good city, benefactors and public
money combining to make the world a better place, and you remember that these
Americans used to know this. It is time to remember, for making greedy people
richer won’t pull this stuff off and we have enough strip malls and light
industrial zones anyway.
On the radio an
evangelical preacher complains that his movement is fading as right wing nuts
have tarred them all as extremists. This is another of the nuances we miss
elsewhere. He remains silent on the fact that he had nothing to say when those
wingnuts were in the ascendancy, but it bothers him now that everyone thinks
he’s a twat too.
I bought a hat
off a hat selling homeless man with a bad sales pitch and an incomprehensible
black guy accent, like Bubbles got a job in Macy's. I said: “do you have
anything dark and simple”, which on reflection he may have misheard as a
description of his own good self. He offered me three hello kitty does Manhattan
things before I took the one that I had described.
People smile,
when you pass them in an isolated spot, in a park or on the shore they will
often nod and smile or say hi. It’s like England in this, but nothing at all
like Moscow. It is also like London in that it is a city that has grown
organically driven by a mix of politics and commerce, minus the imperial roman
shit which I guess is down in D.C. Moscow on the other hand is a planned
city and so has a lack of retail space and public areas are all formed by a top
down notion of what the “people” need. Here there has been a dialogue. There
have also been philanthropists and reformers fighting to ameliorate the worst
effects of the market here, and it is those spaces that make the place so
pleasant, but they need more.
The impulse to
retire into anonymity, so natural to the English, is lost here, people have
stories ready to tell, stories they have practiced and that they would have
define them. An old black lady on a bench outside K Mart invites me to join her
in marveling at the insanity of passersby: she deconstructs them mercilessly.
That one is wearing 3 jumpers coz his mom had him when she was already old and
pa wasn’t around enough, the homeless guy with the cart shouting at walls sees
something we can’t see, and who knows if he is right? Then a couple walk past
with a lap dog in a kids stroller, and she says that’s the end of civilization,
we’re all doomed but it doesn’t matter coz we always were.
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